Which Hay Is Best for Your Rabbit? The Complete Guide
5 min readIf you remember only one thing about your rabbit's diet, make it this: hay makes up 80 to 90% of its daily intake, and it must be available at all times, day and night. Far more than just food, it is your rabbit's daily preventive medicine — for its teeth as much as for its digestion.
The catch: between meadow hay, Premium Crau Hay, alfalfa, first or second cut, it's easy to get lost. This guide sorts it out simply, so you can make an informed choice.
Written by: the Haynest team. Based on veterinary recommendations and guidance from animal welfare organisations.
Why hay is vital for your rabbit
Two features of the rabbit make hay truly essential:
- Its teeth never stop growing — about 2 mm a week, throughout its life. Only prolonged chewing of long fibres, with that characteristic side-to-side motion, wears its molars down properly. A rabbit that doesn't eat enough hay will sooner or later develop dental malocclusion, which is painful and costly to treat.
- Its gut never stops moving — a rabbit's digestive system works as a continuous flow, and hay fibre keeps it moving. When it slows down or stops (the dreaded gastrointestinal stasis), it's a veterinary emergency.
Good to know: pellets, fresh greens and water complete the diet, but never replace hay. Pellets are measured (about 25 g per kilo of body weight per day); hay is not — it's unlimited.
Meadow, Crau, alfalfa: finding your way through the types of hay
Meadow hay: the all-purpose staple
This is the all-round hay par excellence: a natural mix of grasses and meadow plants, balanced in fibre, suitable for all healthy adult rabbits. The more plant species the original meadow contains, the better the hay — both nutritionally and in taste.
Rich in fibre, ideal for digestion, balance and vitality — a favourite of sensitive rabbits.
Premium Crau Hay: the benchmark
Harvested on the Crau plain in Provence, on meadows irrigated by water from the Alps, Premium Crau Hay is considered one of the finest hays in the world. Each bale contains around twenty different plant species, giving it a remarkable fibre-to-protein balance and exceptional palatability — it's often the hay that wins picky rabbits back to their hay rack. It suits young and adult rabbits alike.
Rich and flavorful — the benchmark for a healthy, balanced and natural diet.
Alfalfa: a special case
Alfalfa (lucerne) isn't like other hays: it's a legume, rich in calcium and protein. Ideal as a supplement for a growing young rabbit, a pregnant doe or a convalescent animal, it should not be fed freely to a healthy adult — its excess calcium promotes urinary stones.
First or second cut?
The year's first cut produces hay richer in stems and fibre: ideal for dental wear. The second cut is leafier, softer and often more fragrant: perfect for picky eaters or older rabbits. Alternating the two is a great way to keep things interesting.
5 signs of quality hay
- Colour — a nice green, a sign of careful drying. Yellowed or brown hay has lost most of its nutrients.
- Smell — a pleasant scent of dried grass, nice even to you. Never musty or stale.
- Texture — long strands, a mix of stems and leaves, dry but still supple.
- Low dust — dusty hay irritates your rabbit's airways (and yours).
- Variety — several plant species visible in the bale, rather than a uniform monoculture.
And the final judge is still your rabbit: when hay is good, it dives right in.
How much hay per day?
As much as it wants, always. The classic rule of thumb: your rabbit should eat a volume of hay roughly the size of its own body every day. Serve it in a hay rack or a clean corner, and replace it daily even if some is left — rabbits naturally sort their hay and turn their noses up at trampled hay. This sorting is normal; varied, tasty hay greatly reduces it.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Storing hay in a sealed plastic bag: moisture builds up and the hay goes mouldy. Use a cardboard box, a kraft paper or fabric bag instead, in a dry place away from light.
- Choosing cheap, dusty, yellowed hay: the savings are paid back in wasted hay — and sometimes in vet bills.
- Making up for it with pellets: a rabbit full of pellets ignores its hay — the start of dental and digestive problems.
- Switching hay overnight: make the transition over about a week, mixing old and new hay.
Frequently asked questions
My rabbit won't eat its hay — what should I do?
First check that the hay is fresh, serve it in small amounts refreshed often, and gradually reduce pellets. Also try a tastier hay — that's often what does the trick. However, if your rabbit stops eating altogether or produces noticeably fewer droppings, don't wait 24 hours: contact a vet quickly, as it may be an emergency.
Is the same hay suitable for guinea pigs and chinchillas?
Yes: all small herbivores have the same basic need for fibre. Guinea pigs also need a daily source of vitamin C (suitable greens or a supplement), and chinchillas do particularly well on a fibrous, first-cut type hay.
How long does hay keep?
Several months in good conditions (dry, ventilated, dark). Ideally, use up an opened pack within 2 to 3 months to preserve its aroma and nutrients.
In short
Good hay — green, fragrant, varied and low in dust — available at all times: that's 90% of your rabbit's health. For the rest, trust yourself — and let your rabbit taste.
To complete this guide, find out which natural treats to choose for your rabbit, and how much to give.
Hand-sorted, sun-dried and delivered free to pickup points across France.
Sources
- RSPCA — A healthy diet for your pet rabbit
- RSPCA — How to keep a rabbit healthy and happy
- PDSA — Feeding your rabbits
- MSD Veterinary Manual — Nutrition of Rabbits
This article is for information only and does not replace a vet's advice. If you have any doubts about your rabbit's health, consult a professional, ideally one experienced with rabbits and other exotic pets.
